Penn State trip - caves, vineyards, and statistics!

Last week I went to a statistics summer school at Penn State University.
It was too expensive and too much trouble to fly so I decided to drive. I hired a car from the university fleet services. I got there Friday afternoon and they decided I couldn't use my UK driving license. So after a frantic search got a car from Enterprise. A small economy car they said. It was an interesting trip back to my flat that night.

Small economy car. USA style.

The whole trip should take ~6 hrs.  So I spilt it up over 2 days and stopped a few places on the way. On the way up, first I went to the Grand Caverns. There are tones of caverns in Virginia. And these are amazing. (I went to 3 during the trip so am now an expert on cave formations!)

Calcite formations 

water line.

Used to offer cave water in these jars in 1800s.

Goes up 100ft.

Signatures on the rock of civil war soldiers and leaders.

After this I headed to my first vine yard of the trip. Shenandoah vineyards is the second oldest vineyard in Virginia and the oldest in the Shenandoah region. The woman was a lovely eccentric old lady and the wines were lovely. Which surprised me. I have tried a few VA wines from the supermarket and they are not that good. But obviously the vineyards sell the best stuff from their own cellars.

View from the tasting room.

My chosen wine selection.

On the Saturday night, I stayed in Winchester, but didn't really see much of the town. On Sunday I headed up to the Warriors Path State Path which is just over the border in Pennsylvania. The trip was interesting thanks to my Sat Nav (GPS) taking it on itself to take me on some interesting "roads". At one point I was going 5mph to void the boulders in the "road" which was basically a dirt path. I was praying no other cars were coming the other direction. The worst part is some of the time I could see a perfectly good road.
Due to the weather being iffy and raining on and off I didn't stay long. I did go to the toilets which were basically a very deep hole in the ground. Still it was worth it.

Snapper head turtle, laying eggs on the trail side

One of many dragon flies

The river at Warrior's Path State Park, PA.

Then on the way to Penn State, I got stuck behind an Amish cart. I was so excited. Probably the only person on the road to be excited! (I don't get much excitement in my life!)

Amish horse and cart.

I ended up in the hotel  at State College by 1pm so decided to go to some local vineyards in the area. The first was Mt. Nittany. The drive was lovely, in mountains and small lanes.

Mt. Nittany tasting room.

Perfect view for a glass of wine.

Wine selection from Mt. Nittany,

 I also went to Seven Mountain vineyard, which is a lot posher but I didn't get any pictures. I think at first I offended the lady giving me the tasting. I was driving so I didn't want too much and kept pouring them out. (I did ask for very small tastes but she ignored me.) I had to then explain, after she indignantly asked why I didn't like any of them, that I did but was driving so couldn't drink much. Of course I then felt obliged to buy some of the wines. :-) Which wasn't a hardship as they had a very nice Riesling (which was of course buy 2, get one free). What's a girl to do?

Seven mountain wines.

The week was mostly in lectures on stats. Which I was expecting to be useful but not as interesting as they were. I got loads of ideas on things I could actually do to investigate and study my data. It was hard work (long days in lectures) but worth it. On Wednesday night we had a nice dinner (though all the deserts were cake so I couldn't eat them. :-(  )
On Thursday we had a half afternoon off and a trip to Penn's cave, which is a water cave. Initially the boat was a little too shaky for me (and everyone else's) liking. But the cave was nice.

Water cave

Penn's cave

Lake at the end of the water cave.

 We then went for a BBQ and Indian buffet picnic. Which if it had been on any of the previous days would have been fine. Unfortunately, as always happens when you plan a picnic, it rained. So most of us stayed in the undercover pavilion. Still the food and company were good. Some of us headed off early when the rain stopped as we were freezing. Friday night was filled with Lebanese food, drinks (in mulitple bars because we couldn't make up our mind!) and lots of very fun girl talk. :-)
By the end of the week I was exhausted but had a great time meeting lots of interesting people, learning loads, and having lots of good food.
Saturday morning after breakfast, Megan and I walked through the campus to get some pictures of the local wildlife running around campus.

Baby ducks everywhere - little blurry as they wouldn't stay still!

Chipmunks!

Baby rabbit (saw rabbits every day walking into Uni.)

The squirrels had no fear. At all.

The we went to the Arboretum, which was fun but not finished.

Lily

View from the Pavilion.

No idea what this is but saw it running across the car park.

After this we headed back to my car and out to a farm shop. It was brilliant and I stocked up on some of the foods and stuff I haven't found in Blacksburg yet. And then I took Megan for her first PA wine tasting at the Happy Valley vineyard. Which I think she enjoyed. :-)

Megan and Harley.

Happy Valley vineyard tasting room.

My wine selection from the Happy Valley, including an ice wine.

After this it was on to the creamery where Penn State trained Ben & Jerry. And it was sooooo good. You pay for a bowl or cone. No different sizes. My bowl had ~5-6 scoops in it. Pralines & cream. Ice cream heaven! :-)
Megan walked back to the hotel and I then attempted to find a gas station. However on Saturday, my TomTom was having an off day. It sent me to 3 gas stations which did not exist. Until I gave up and just drove around until I found one. It required some interesting (and potentially illegal maneuvers) but it ended up ok. I was then supposed to go to Berkeley Springs. But my TomTom does things by state and I didn't realise the springs I wanted to go to was just over the border in VA. So I ended up in the wrong one. (Apparently there are a few places called Berkeley Springs. Like one in each state!) I ended up in a tiny little, one-horse town where they looked at me like I had just parked my space ship, not my jeep. I didn't stick around there long (though it was very pretty). It meant I added another 2+ hrs to my trip and didn't arrive at my hotel until 7pm.
That evening and night I was unfortunate enough to have the room I did. At ~11pm, there was a knock on the door by 2 Mexican guys looking for their friend. When they figured he wasn't here,  they tried to hit on me and get in the room anyway. I shut the door on them. But at 2am, they apparently forgot and came looking for "Sarah" again. I told them to go away. Which they had forgotten by 3am when they started banging on my door again. Sigh! So I didn't get much sleep.
Sunday however was amazing. I went to the Luray Caverns as everyone has been telling me about them. They are very cool.

Mirror lake - only top formations are real. Bottom ones are reflections

Plutos ghost

Oldest formation at ~7 million yrs old

Different colours in the caves

Light behind cave bacon.

I sat having a bowl of chilli for lunch listening to live music. They also had a toy museum which was fun. (Though the dolls still creeped me out.)

I then headed to my last vineyard on the way home. However as I hit the interstate the heavens opened. I couldn't see more than 10 meters in front of my car. But that didn't seem to bother the other drivers, as they continued at 70mph and more scarily, switching lanes with only centimeters to spare. I spent about 10mins screaming at the top of my lungs and swearing at other drivers. (I know some interesting swear words and curses it seems when put in the right/wrong situation.) And apparently I can get real road rage. Especially when people stay in the outside lane (these interstates only have 2 lanes) and clog up the traffic.

But I did get there. And I think the Blue Ridge Vineyard was my favourite. Their wines weren't the best but the place was amazing. It was literally the middle of nowhere. They have a bear on the wine label as they often have visits by lack bears. In fact the owner wasn't there for some of the time as their dog got mauled by a bear the night before. But the people there were the nicest and I sat for an hour just chatting to them. There was a guy there who was the stereotype for mountain hillbilly. He was brilliant! He explained how these were his good bibs (dungarees) as he had been to church that morning. It was fabulous! Plus they had live music and the girl was amazing. She had such a good voice. I brought her CD and a few bottles of wine.

View from the Blue ridge Vineyards tasting room.

Wine selection from the Blue Ridge Vineyard

View driving near the winery.

I had a great time there. And will definitely be going back. But I had to leave as I needed to get the car back and take advantage of it to do some serious food shopping!
I was very sad to give the car back. It was a lovely car in the end. And I now have a very nice (if overly extensive) wine collection. :-/ But I wont need to carry any more home from the supermarket for the next, well, year most likely. OK, maybe 6 months. :-)

Full selection of VA and PA wines.

Natural Bridge

On Saturday Cissi, Brenda and I went to the Natural bridge and caverns in the north. We got there for 9am (which meant way too early a morning). But we got there were there were only a few people there.

Entrance to the bridge park.

The bridge is a natural formation carved out by Cedar Creek. There is a mile walk along the creek, through the bridge and up to Lace waterfall.

Waterfall along the steps going down to the creek

Cissi with her ticket!

Cissi and Brentha in front of the bridge.

Natural bridge and Cedar Creek

Luckily no rocks fell on us.

The walk along the Creek was beautiful. And it was a gorgeous day.

Cedar Creek

Another waterfall.

There was also lots of wildlife along the way. There were butterflies everywhere. As well as a few snakes sunning themselves. The otter was too fast for a photo but the baby geese happily posed for the camera.

Lots of the trees had these huge mushrooms.

Baby geese posing.

This butterfly stayed on her hand for ages. (Even when she walk halfway back down the trail)

Looking for some sun

Sunbathing

So were the butterflies.

The water fall at the end was lovely. We couldn't get as close as I wanted to but still worth the trip.

Lace waterfalls.

Cissi at the waterfalls

There was also a recreation of a Monacan indian Village from ~1700.  There were various huts and people to explain about how they lived. Miss Elizabeth is a direct descendent but there are only about 3500 left.

Miss Elizabeth, demonstrating planting

Raccoon, also used as a glove by the Indians. (Skunks used to stored tobacco.)

Deer hides.

Turkey wing used as a fan for the fire.

We had lunch by one of the waterfalls and then headed to the shop. There was also a butterfly farm at the shop.

After the bridge, we headed up the road to the caverns. Unfortunately the tour group we were in was huge so at times it was hard to hear what the tour guide was saying. Still the caves were nice. (My camera is rubbish in low light so I didn't get any good photos.)

We had finished at the caverns by 3.30pm so decided to head to a vineyard on the way back to Roanoke before dinner. Unfortunately we managed to pick on which was closed for a wedding. :-( Next time. 

We stopped at a Taiwanese restaurant in Roanoke on the way back. I just let Cissi order. The food was nice and the people were lovely and gave us free hot tea. There was also a Chinese Zodiac on the table. Because I have a juvenile sense of humour (and a gutter mind), mine made me laugh.    

My Chinese zodiac.

Soft shell crabs

I got an email from the Gourmet Pantry a few days ago asking if I would be interested in going in on
case of soft shell crabs at some point. I have been dying to try these for a long time so I said sure and asked for half a dozen. Then Thursday I got an email about 1.30pm, saying the crabs had arrived and I needed to pick them up by 6pm that day. Because they were alive! I was not expecting this. (The following is not for the faint hearted.)

I picked them up (the lady helfully telling me to keep watch as this lot were fiesty - she was so not kidding) and got the home (apologizing to them for every bump even though I was taking them home to kill them!). I have cooked fresh live crab in France last year but apparently soft shell crabs are different. With a normal crab, I would put in the freezer for 10 mins to send it to sleep or knock it on its head to stun it and then put it in boiling hot water. They die really quickly. And then you can freeze the meat afterwards.

But soft shell crabs are apparently different. You can't just put them in the freezer. And they are best cooked just before eating them. So you have to prepare them and kill them first.
And to kill them you have to cut their heads off. :-( Then you have to clean them which involves cutting off the apron underneath (which I think is similar to castrating them) and then removing their lungs.

After half a bottle of wine (while the crabs waited in the fridge which is supposed to make them drowsy), I had psyched myself up enough to start. The first one was ok but seriously gross. They squirt juice everywhere. But he died a noble and dignified death.

First cleaned and prepared.

 And still it would not die. So I did what every self respecting grownup adult would do. I phoned my mom!
She was mostly just laughing at me, but it calmed me down enough to actually go back into the kitchen,
and not just give the kitchen over to the headless crabman (who was either trying to swim away or crawl back to his head!) My dad phoned my aunt who said to stab it behind the eyes. I assume that doesn't do any good if the head is already detached!

After over half a hour, I sucked it up and went back in. I tried cutting more off. Still moving. I stabbed it. Multiple times. It still moved. I hit it with a spoon. (Not sure why but it seemed like the thing to do at that point - blame 3/4 of a bottle of wine). It was the Rasputan of the crab world. And I should point out I still had another 4 to deal with, who I was pretty sure were planning a breakout at this point (they were warming up and waking up). So I put them all into the freezer!

After 20 mins (and another glass of wine), I took them out. He was finally dead! :-) I quickly took the heads of the other before I could think about it. It was a blood bath! I keep promising them a dazzling afterlife in Vahalla. (I am not religious so it didn't seem right to talk about heaven and after their fight, the afterlife for fallen warriors seemed appropriate. And you may think me mad, but it seemed like the thing to do at the time.) And yet they too wouldn't die. Apparently crabs dont really care it they have brains or not. (I know some people like this too.) So back in the freezer while I cleaned the actual dead ones. There was no way I was going to castrate and rip the lungs out of a crab that was not dead. That is just cruel. I was hoping to give them a quick painless death.

Castration!

 When I took the final 4 out of the freezer, 30 mins later, one was still moving! I put him back for another 15 mins deciding if he was still alive (headless and half frozen) then, I was going to fill the bath with salt water and the next day go to the coast and set him free! After all this he would have deserved it. :-)
Moving after 30 mins in the freezer!
But not necessary. After a traumatic 2 hrs, I finally had 6 cleaned and wrapped crabs ready for the freezer. There was no way I was eating them then! (I had a small plate of chips instead!) I am going to have to wait for the trauma to recede before I can eat them. (And yes I did have dreams of headless crabs!)

Finally ready for the freezer.

New York City - Last morning

On our last day, Caroline had to leave early so we went for a breakfast at a diner nearby before finishing packing. I left my stuff in the room and went with Caroline who tried to hail a cab on our street. After a few taxis past, one stopped. It was already occupied but she rolled down the window and told us to go to the corner of 3rd Avenue (next road down). Apparently the trick is to wave from the corner (and partially standing in the road helps but we weren't that brave/crazy). Eventually we flagged one down and Caroline went off to Penn Station to get her train to Baltimore airport.
I went back to Grand Central. While we were stuck on the bus yesterday evening, the tour guide was filling in time (while trying to figure out where we were going because it was not the way we should be due to something happening on 49th, either an accident or the road was blocked because someone famous arrived at the Waldorf Astoria.) She told us loads of things about Grand Central, like how they smuggled Jackie Kennedy out in the middle of the night on a train (I have no idea why that was so impressive but she and others seemed to think so.) There are lots of secret tunnels and train lines there going to the Waldorf, which is the President's hotel while in New York. It started with Roosevelt staying there and other Presidents after have kept up the tradition. The tunnels were built so Roosevelt could kept the secret he was in a wheelchair and arrive secretly. Of course, I couldn't go in the tunnels, but still pretty cool. Also they are supposed to have great shops there!
And the station itself is really is beautiful. Penn Station used to be the same but they tore it down, but thankfully saved Grand Central Terminal.

Astronomy on the ceiling.

View from the balcony.

I had a wonder around but couldn't find all these amazing shops people talk about.
And then I found heaven! Grand Central Market. Remember I have been in Blacksburg for the past few months which isn't exactly the height of civilization (though I do love it already there) but the selection of gourmet foods etc is limited. The market was fairly small but amazing. They had meat, fish, cheese, veg, and more.

Veg stall

The most beautiful cakes I have ever seen!

Spice and tea heaven!!!!

Even chocolate!

Though my favorite was the spices and teas where I brought lots of different spices and tea. (The selection was amazing!) I came away a little poorer but very happy!
After that I wondered a little, hit one more souvenir shop for a few little bits and headed back to the hotel as my shuttle to the airport is at 12pm. I then have 2 and a half hours in Terminal F in Philly. If you ever go there, take food and reading material. There is nothing!!!!!
Overall, I love New York!!!! I don't really like cities that much but I think I could live in New York. There is so much to do and am looking forward to next visit and doing all the things I missed this time! :-)

New York - Day 4

On Thursday morning, we went to Grand Central Terminal. Very pretty and by far the nicest station I have seen in a while. There is a large astronomy scene on the ceiling.

Grand central

The famous clock in the centre of the concourse.

We headed to Hell's Kitchen again, to the Cosmic diner for breakfast. (We both have a new found love of Turkey bacon!)  Then got on the tour bus down to Greenwich Village and SoHo. I recommend the tour buses. Some of the tour guides are a bit weird (Caroline got a love declaration on this bus) and you look like a complete tourist but we learnt a lot of great stuff we wouldn't have otherwise.
We got off at Greenwich and are such wimps; within 5 mins we were in a cafe. The wind was bitter and we were so cold. But at the cafe, they did tell us the better places to go for shopping, so we headed to SoHo. This area is really cool and friendly. Most of the normal shops but there is one called The Evolution Store, which has things like skulls, shells, fossils, and links art to science. We spent ages (and lots of money) there. Caroline brought an amazing necklace. I got a spider's web which is captured in glass. It's from a spider species called the beautiful one, and was found in New Jersey.

Spider's web in glass.

I also got a stone made from Volcanic rock from Mexico which changes color when looked at in different lights.
Then we walked down to Tribeca (an area of the city near the World Trade centre). We didn't really want to go to the 911 Memorial but we had a look at the new World Trade Tower which should be finished by the beginning of next year. There will be one main tower and 6 smaller ones. Mainly we wanted to see the Miracle church. It was named this as it has survived a lot. Fires. Storms. And the Twin towers falling. Buildings further away had all their windows blown out. And the church was untouched. The trees in the grave yard saved it from the debris.
It was also where the fire men slept while digging through the ruins and inside is the story of what happened at the church during that time. It was very sad and there is a flag with all the names on of people who died.

New World Trade Centre

Miracle church 

Bell given to NYC from London outside church.

In Battery Park, which is on the southern tip of the island, there is a gold ball which was in front of the towers when the collapsed. Around it is a community garden, which feeds the homeless, and a WW2 tribute.

What is left of the ball from in front of the twin towers.

Monument of WW2

Names of fallen soldiers of WW2.

View from Battery Park of Statue of Liberty.

After that, we headed back to the Fire Zone. Before the presentation, we had a look around. The walls were covered with badges from fire departments from all over the world. There was also a poster on the wall with the names and photos of all the fire fighters who died in 9/11. I did not realize there were so many! Humbling. Anyway, the presentation was more meant for little kids but it was still fun. We also promised a photo with a firefighter. Unfortunately the fireman was a nice guy but not the cute hunk we were hoping for. ;-) So we skipped.

Mascots in the fire truck

badges.

More badges.

We ate in Hell's Kitchen again. It's an area west of Times square. The food is just as good and half the price as that in Times Square. So Caroline got her New York pizza, and we enjoyed a very nice bottle of New Zealand Riesling. Then we headed back to the hotel to pack, via Times Square. The New Years ball is a lot smaller than we expected, only 6 foot in diameter. And Times Square is not even a square! It's a triangle. But there area is full of life and lots of lights and billboards.

Times Square. 

New Years ball.

After packing, it was out to the wine bar for more Pouilly Fume for our last night. Very tasting!